How Should I Water My Lawn?
High quality turf will require varying amounts of water depending on the soil type and weather conditions. Heavy clay soils will require more watering than will sandy soils in order for moisture to reach 4-5” down where the grass roots are. However, sandy soil holds less water than clay soil so more frequent watering will be required for lawns in sandy soils. Generally speaking high quality lawn should receive between 1.0-1.5” of water per week. So if it rains an inch that week, there’s no need to water in the cool spring and fall weather. However, in the hot months, turf needs watering badly to keep its vigor and continue looking good. Watering at least 1.5” per week in July and August will ensure your lawn doesn’t dry out. Heat and drought stress will cause cool season grasses to go dormant, meaning they allow all of their leaves to die off to conserve energy and won’t start growing new shoots until wetter and cooler conditions come back in the fall. Watering more often works best in the hot summer months, meaning watering ½” 3 times a week is better than watering 1.5” once a week. This is because watering also provides the benefits of cooling down heat stressed turf which helps it get through the stress caused by the heat of the summer.
How long do I need to water my lawn?
For those of you working the hose (manual irrigation system, haha) to keep your lawn green, let’s do the math to see how you can make sure your lawn is getting the 1.0 – 1.5” per week it needs. The average flow rate in Minneapolis and St. Paul MN is roughly 10 gallons per minute. You can find out precisely what your flow rate is by turning your hose spigot on full blast and using a stopwatch to determine how many seconds it takes to fill up a 1 gallon milk container. Then convert that reading into gallons per minute, for example if it takes 6 seconds to fill a 1 gallon container, than your flow rate equals 10 gallons per minute. We do this test before we install every sprinkler system to ensure the system works properly.
Let’s see how long you will need to leave the hose on to provide your lawn with ½” of water
Average flow rate from hose spigot in Minneapolis = 10 gallons per minute (can vary between 8-18 gallons per minute).
Let’s assume your lawn is exactly 6,000 square feet for this example.
1/2 “ of water per square foot = 0.0416 square feet of water.
Multiply that square feet of water times the area of your lawn to give you the amount of gallons you would need. The amount of water needed to cover a 6,000 square foot lawn with ½” of water = 6,000 x 0.0416 = 250 gallons.
Using a flow rate of 10 gallons per minute, you will need to water for about 25 minutes to give your lawn a ½” of water or 50 minutes to water apply 1” of water per square foot.
Don’t forget to move your hose around the yard to ensure all the grass is covered!
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When Pergolas Don’t Last, There’s Always a Reason After nearly two decades of building outdoor spaces across Medina, I’ve seen what happens when pergolas aren’t designed for Minnesota’s conditions. You can spot them a mile away—posts that lean, beams that twist, and concrete pads that have heaved out of level after just a couple of winters. It’s not because homeowners cut corners intentionally. It’s usually because whoever built it didn’t account for what our climate really does to structures that aren’t anchored right. Medina’s heavy clay soil doesn’t drain well. It holds moisture, freezes solid, and then expands like a hydraulic press pushing on everything above it. When pergolas are set on surface-level post bases, that pressure has nowhere to go but up—and the whole thing moves. Even small shifts can cause joints to separate, wood to crack, and hardware to loosen. That’s how a $15,000 structure starts looking tired after a few years instead of standing straight for decades. The truth is, pergolas here aren’t just about shade or looks. They’re about structure, drainage, and how every piece ties into the patio beneath it. A pergola that stands tall through Minnesota winters is built on the same principles as a good foundation—it’s only as strong as what’s underneath it. If you live in Medina and want to enjoy your backyard without worrying about your investment warping or sagging, start with design that respects the environment it’s built in. That means thinking beyond lumber and stain colors. It means understanding soil movement, water management, and the importance of integrating your pergola with the patio below it.
Solutions for Properties in Minnetonka You can always tell a Minnetonka yard that’s fighting its slope. Water doesn’t lie, it finds the weak spots every time. I’ve walked plenty of properties where a backyard starts beautiful in June, but by September, the patio is heaving, the grass near the pool looks like a marsh, and the homeowner is wondering how it got so bad so fast. The truth is, when you’re dealing with rolling terrain and heavy clay soils like we have around Minnetonka, you can’t just move dirt and hope gravity behaves. You need a plan that manages water from the surface all the way down through the subsoil. This is what I’ll walk you through here. You’ll see what actually causes drainage issues on sloped properties, how poor planning leads to cracked patios and shifting pool decks, and the smart drainage systems that can stop those problems for good. Whether you live near Lake Minnetonka or up in the higher ridges closer to Deephaven or Woodland, understanding how your yard sheds water is the difference between a property that lasts and one that’s constantly under repair. The Real Challenge of Sloped Minnetonka Yards Minnetonka is known for its hills, lakefront properties, and mature trees, but all that beauty comes with a set of challenges below the surface. Most of the soil here is dense clay. It holds water like a sponge and drains slowly, which means after every heavy rain, that water looks for a way downhill. If it doesn’t have a proper outlet, it ends up collecting right where you don’t want it, like along your patio, at the base of a retaining wall, or near your pool deck. I see this every season: homeowners trying to solve slope problems with a quick regrade, a layer of rock, or a simple surface drain. Those things might help for a while, but they don’t address what’s really happening underground. Clay soil doesn’t just get wet—it becomes saturated, expanding and contracting with every freeze-thaw cycle. When that happens under a patio or wall, it doesn’t matter how well-built the surface looks. The ground will move, and that movement cracks stone, shifts pavers, and slowly tears apart everything on top. The other challenge with sloped lots is how water interacts with gravity. It accelerates downhill, gaining momentum as it goes. When it hits a flat area like a patio, the water loses speed but not volume, pooling instead of flowing. That’s why I tell clients that “flat spots” on a sloped property are both an opportunity and a responsibility. They’re the best spaces to create usable outdoor areas, but they have to be engineered to handle water movement. I’ve worked on plenty of Minnetonka yards where the backyard has a beautiful view but terrible grading. You can have a perfect slope on paper, but if it directs water toward your house or creates a bowl effect between structures, you’ll end up with soggy soil and standing puddles that never dry. The goal is to move water off and away while keeping the surface level enough for comfort and usability. It’s a fine balance, but when it’s done right, it completely transforms how a property functions.